Infra Red Switch
Infra Red Remote Control Extender
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Description
This circuit is used to relay signals from an Infra Red remote control in one room to an IR controlled appliance in another room.
Forward
I have seen these devices advertised in magazines, they sell for around £40-£50 and use radio to transmit between receiver and transmitter. This version costs under £5 to make and uses a cable connection between receiver and transmitter. For example, if you have a bedroom TV set that is wired to the video or satellite in another room, then you can change channels on the remote satellite receiver using this circuit. The idea is that you take your remote control with you, aim at the IR remote control extender which is in the same room, and this will relay the IR signal and control the remote appliance for you. The circuit is displayed below:
Parts List:
1 SFH2030 Photodiode
1 TIL38 IR emitting diode
1 5mm Red LED
2 4.7M 1/4W resistors
1 1k 1/4W resistor
1 2.2k 1/4W resistor
1 27ohm 1/2W resistor
1 BC337 transistor
1 CA3140 MOSFET opamp
The CA31340 is available in the US from Electronix Express, part number N103140.
Circuit Advantages
The advantage of this design against similar designs is that there are no adjustments to make or set-up procedures. However care should be taken to avoid ambient light reaching the photodiode. A dayligt filter type (black in colour) is recommended. Bellwire or speaker cable may be used to remotely site the IR emitting diode, since this design uses low output impedance and will not pick up noise. Some systems require coaxial cable which is expensive and bulky. The wireless variety of remote control extenders need two power supplies, here one is used and being radio are inevitably EM noise pollution. A visual indication of the unit receiving an Infra Red signal is provided by LED1. This is an ordinary coloured LED, I used orange but any colour will do. You will see LED1 flash at a rate of 4 - 40Hz when a remote control button is pressed. LED0 is an Infra Red Emitter Diode, this is remotely wired in the room with the appliance to be controlled. I used the type SFH487 which has a peak wavelength of 880nm. This is available in the UK from Maplin Electronics, order code CY88V. Most IR remote controls operate at slightly different wavelengths, between the range of 850 - 950nm. If you cannot obtain the SFH487 then any IR emitter diode that has an output in the above range should work.
About IR Remote Controls
As previously stated IR remote controls use wavelengths between 850 - 950nm. At this short wavelength, the light is invisible to the human eye, but a domestic camcorder can actually view this portion of the electromagnetic spectrum. Viewed with a camcorder, an IR LED appears to change brightness. All remote controls use an encoded series of pulses, of which there are thousands of combinations. The light output intensity varies with each remote control, remotes working at 4.5V dc generally will provide a stronger light output than a 3V dc control. Also, as the photodiode in this project has a peak light response at 850nm, it will receive a stronger signal from controls operating closer to this wavelength. The photodiode will actually respond to IR wavelengths from 400nm to 1100nm, so all remote controls should be compatible.
Circuit Description
The receiver is built around a silicon photodiode, the SFH2030 available from Maplin, order code CY90X. This photodiode is very sensitive and will respond to a wide spectral range of IR frequencies. There is a small amount of infra red in direct sunlight, so make sure that the diode does not pick up direct sunlight. If this happens, LED1 will be constantly lit. There is a version of the SFH2030 that has a daylight filter built in, the SFH2030F order code CY91Y. A TIL100 will also give good results here. A photodiode produces minute pulses of current when exposed to infra red radiation. This current (around 1uA with the SFH2030 and a typical IR control used at a distance of 1 meter) is amplified by the CA3140 opamp. The opamp is configured as a current to voltage convertor, producing an output of about 4.7 volts per uA of input current. The photodiode, can be placed up to a meter or so away from the circuit. Screened cable is not necessary, as common mode signals (noise) will be rejected. It is essential to use a MOSFET input type here as there is zero output offset and negligible input offset current. A 741 or LF351 can not be used in this circuit. The output from the opamp is amplified by the BC337 operating in common emitter mode. As a MOSFET opamp IC is used, its quiescent voltage output is zero and this transistor and both LED's will not be lit. The 1k resistor makes sure that the BC337 will fully saturate and at the same time limits base current to a safe level. Operating an IR remote control and pointing at the photodiode (SFH2030) will cause both LED's to illuminate, you will only see the visable coloured LED (LED1) which will flicker. Remote controls use a system of pulse code modulation, so it is essential that the signal is not distorted by any significant amount. Direct coupling, and a high speed switching transistor avoid this problem.
Construction
No special PCB is required, I built my prototype on a small piece of Veroboard. The pinout for the CA3140 is shown below. Note that only the pins labeled in the schematic are used, pins 1, 5 and 8 are not used and left unconnected.
Alignment
There is nothing to set-up or adjust in this circuit. The only thing to watch is that the emitting diode is pointing at the controlled device (video, CD player, etc). I found that the beam was quite directional. Also make sure that there is a direct line of sight involved. It will not work if a 5 foot spider plant gets in the way, for example. I had a usable range at 5 meters, but possibly more distance may be possible. As a check, place a dc volt meter across the 27 ohm resistor. It should read 0 volts, but around 2 or 3 volts when a remote control is aimed at the photodiode.
Specifications of Prototype
Having made my prototype, I ran a few tests :-
Current consumption 2mA standby 60mA operating ( with 12V supply)
2mA standby 85mA operating (with 15V supply)
IR receiver range < 1 meter
IR transmitter range > 5 meters
It is difficult to measure the IR transmitter range as this is dependent upon a number of factors. The type of infra red control used and its proximity to the receiving photodiode, the voltage supply, the wavelength and efficiency of the IR emitter and the sensitivity of the controlled appliance all affect overall performance.
In Use
The reception range of the IR remote control to the photodiode depends on the strength of the remote control, but I had a working range of a meter or so, this needs bearing in mind when placing the circuit. Its also a good idea to wire LED1, the coloured LED near to the photodiode, that way, you know that the unit has received a signal. The IR emitter has a larger range, I had no problems at 5 meters but may possibly work further distances. The emitting diodes are quite directional, so make sure it is aimed directly at the appliance to be controlled. The IR emitting diode is small and can be placed out of sight. I drilled a small hole above the door frame. The emitter diode leads were insulated and pushed through this hole, leaving an inch or so to adjust the angle and position of the LED. From a distance, the clear plastic lens of the diode could not be seen.
Final Comments and Fault Finding
To date this has proved to be one of the most popular circuits on my site. Of all the email I receive about this circuit, most problems relate to the Infra Red photo diode. You must make sure that this is pointed away from sunlight, or use a type with daylight filter, otherwise LED1 will be constantly lit, and LED0 will be in operation also. This will draw excessive current and in some case overheat the BC337. The main problem is when using a different photo diode to the SFH2030. Any other photo diode LED should work, but you need to know its operating wavelength range beforehand. This will generally be described in the manufacturers data sheet or possibly described if you order from an electronic component catalogue. With these last two points in mind, you should be rewarded with a useful and working circuit.
PCB Template
This has been very kindly drafted by Domenico from Italy. First the copper side:
A magnified view from the component side is shown below. Unfortunately the transistor outline was reversed in the original diagram, my thanks go to Federico Laura for correcting this diagram :
Mark 1A Version
The modification to the Mark 1 circuit below separtes IR handset signals from daylight and mains powered lighting. The 22n capacitor has a high impedance at 50/60Hz and daylight but allows a modulated signal to pass. The 2N2222 transistor is biased on under no signal, the BC337 will be fully off. A control signal will switch off and on the 2N2222 transistor at the modulation frequency of the control, which in turn controls the BC337. As this is a cleaner signal, the series resistor may be increased to 100ohms.
Finally below, a neat and compact cased version of the Mark1 circuit, tcompleted by Nick from UK.
Last revision 21 March 2007
Infra Red Remote Control Extender
Email me
Description
This circuit is used to relay signals from an Infra Red remote control in one room to an IR controlled appliance in another room.
Forward
I have seen these devices advertised in magazines, they sell for around £40-£50 and use radio to transmit between receiver and transmitter. This version costs under £5 to make and uses a cable connection between receiver and transmitter. For example, if you have a bedroom TV set that is wired to the video or satellite in another room, then you can change channels on the remote satellite receiver using this circuit. The idea is that you take your remote control with you, aim at the IR remote control extender which is in the same room, and this will relay the IR signal and control the remote appliance for you. The circuit is displayed below:
Parts List:
1 SFH2030 Photodiode
1 TIL38 IR emitting diode
1 5mm Red LED
2 4.7M 1/4W resistors
1 1k 1/4W resistor
1 2.2k 1/4W resistor
1 27ohm 1/2W resistor
1 BC337 transistor
1 CA3140 MOSFET opamp
The CA31340 is available in the US from Electronix Express, part number N103140.
Circuit Advantages
The advantage of this design against similar designs is that there are no adjustments to make or set-up procedures. However care should be taken to avoid ambient light reaching the photodiode. A dayligt filter type (black in colour) is recommended. Bellwire or speaker cable may be used to remotely site the IR emitting diode, since this design uses low output impedance and will not pick up noise. Some systems require coaxial cable which is expensive and bulky. The wireless variety of remote control extenders need two power supplies, here one is used and being radio are inevitably EM noise pollution. A visual indication of the unit receiving an Infra Red signal is provided by LED1. This is an ordinary coloured LED, I used orange but any colour will do. You will see LED1 flash at a rate of 4 - 40Hz when a remote control button is pressed. LED0 is an Infra Red Emitter Diode, this is remotely wired in the room with the appliance to be controlled. I used the type SFH487 which has a peak wavelength of 880nm. This is available in the UK from Maplin Electronics, order code CY88V. Most IR remote controls operate at slightly different wavelengths, between the range of 850 - 950nm. If you cannot obtain the SFH487 then any IR emitter diode that has an output in the above range should work.
About IR Remote Controls
As previously stated IR remote controls use wavelengths between 850 - 950nm. At this short wavelength, the light is invisible to the human eye, but a domestic camcorder can actually view this portion of the electromagnetic spectrum. Viewed with a camcorder, an IR LED appears to change brightness. All remote controls use an encoded series of pulses, of which there are thousands of combinations. The light output intensity varies with each remote control, remotes working at 4.5V dc generally will provide a stronger light output than a 3V dc control. Also, as the photodiode in this project has a peak light response at 850nm, it will receive a stronger signal from controls operating closer to this wavelength. The photodiode will actually respond to IR wavelengths from 400nm to 1100nm, so all remote controls should be compatible.
Circuit Description
The receiver is built around a silicon photodiode, the SFH2030 available from Maplin, order code CY90X. This photodiode is very sensitive and will respond to a wide spectral range of IR frequencies. There is a small amount of infra red in direct sunlight, so make sure that the diode does not pick up direct sunlight. If this happens, LED1 will be constantly lit. There is a version of the SFH2030 that has a daylight filter built in, the SFH2030F order code CY91Y. A TIL100 will also give good results here. A photodiode produces minute pulses of current when exposed to infra red radiation. This current (around 1uA with the SFH2030 and a typical IR control used at a distance of 1 meter) is amplified by the CA3140 opamp. The opamp is configured as a current to voltage convertor, producing an output of about 4.7 volts per uA of input current. The photodiode, can be placed up to a meter or so away from the circuit. Screened cable is not necessary, as common mode signals (noise) will be rejected. It is essential to use a MOSFET input type here as there is zero output offset and negligible input offset current. A 741 or LF351 can not be used in this circuit. The output from the opamp is amplified by the BC337 operating in common emitter mode. As a MOSFET opamp IC is used, its quiescent voltage output is zero and this transistor and both LED's will not be lit. The 1k resistor makes sure that the BC337 will fully saturate and at the same time limits base current to a safe level. Operating an IR remote control and pointing at the photodiode (SFH2030) will cause both LED's to illuminate, you will only see the visable coloured LED (LED1) which will flicker. Remote controls use a system of pulse code modulation, so it is essential that the signal is not distorted by any significant amount. Direct coupling, and a high speed switching transistor avoid this problem.
Construction
No special PCB is required, I built my prototype on a small piece of Veroboard. The pinout for the CA3140 is shown below. Note that only the pins labeled in the schematic are used, pins 1, 5 and 8 are not used and left unconnected.
Alignment
There is nothing to set-up or adjust in this circuit. The only thing to watch is that the emitting diode is pointing at the controlled device (video, CD player, etc). I found that the beam was quite directional. Also make sure that there is a direct line of sight involved. It will not work if a 5 foot spider plant gets in the way, for example. I had a usable range at 5 meters, but possibly more distance may be possible. As a check, place a dc volt meter across the 27 ohm resistor. It should read 0 volts, but around 2 or 3 volts when a remote control is aimed at the photodiode.
Specifications of Prototype
Having made my prototype, I ran a few tests :-
Current consumption 2mA standby 60mA operating ( with 12V supply)
2mA standby 85mA operating (with 15V supply)
IR receiver range < 1 meter
IR transmitter range > 5 meters
It is difficult to measure the IR transmitter range as this is dependent upon a number of factors. The type of infra red control used and its proximity to the receiving photodiode, the voltage supply, the wavelength and efficiency of the IR emitter and the sensitivity of the controlled appliance all affect overall performance.
In Use
The reception range of the IR remote control to the photodiode depends on the strength of the remote control, but I had a working range of a meter or so, this needs bearing in mind when placing the circuit. Its also a good idea to wire LED1, the coloured LED near to the photodiode, that way, you know that the unit has received a signal. The IR emitter has a larger range, I had no problems at 5 meters but may possibly work further distances. The emitting diodes are quite directional, so make sure it is aimed directly at the appliance to be controlled. The IR emitting diode is small and can be placed out of sight. I drilled a small hole above the door frame. The emitter diode leads were insulated and pushed through this hole, leaving an inch or so to adjust the angle and position of the LED. From a distance, the clear plastic lens of the diode could not be seen.
Final Comments and Fault Finding
To date this has proved to be one of the most popular circuits on my site. Of all the email I receive about this circuit, most problems relate to the Infra Red photo diode. You must make sure that this is pointed away from sunlight, or use a type with daylight filter, otherwise LED1 will be constantly lit, and LED0 will be in operation also. This will draw excessive current and in some case overheat the BC337. The main problem is when using a different photo diode to the SFH2030. Any other photo diode LED should work, but you need to know its operating wavelength range beforehand. This will generally be described in the manufacturers data sheet or possibly described if you order from an electronic component catalogue. With these last two points in mind, you should be rewarded with a useful and working circuit.
PCB Template
This has been very kindly drafted by Domenico from Italy. First the copper side:
A magnified view from the component side is shown below. Unfortunately the transistor outline was reversed in the original diagram, my thanks go to Federico Laura for correcting this diagram :
Mark 1A Version
The modification to the Mark 1 circuit below separtes IR handset signals from daylight and mains powered lighting. The 22n capacitor has a high impedance at 50/60Hz and daylight but allows a modulated signal to pass. The 2N2222 transistor is biased on under no signal, the BC337 will be fully off. A control signal will switch off and on the 2N2222 transistor at the modulation frequency of the control, which in turn controls the BC337. As this is a cleaner signal, the series resistor may be increased to 100ohms.
Finally below, a neat and compact cased version of the Mark1 circuit, tcompleted by Nick from UK.
Last revision 21 March 2007
Circuit : Andy Collinson
Email me
Description:
An Infra Red wired Repeater circuit to control appliances from a remote location.
Parts List:
R1: 1k Resistor (1)
R2: 3.3k Resistor (1)
R3: 10k Resistor (1)
R4: 15k Resistor (1)
R5: 2k2 Resistor (1)
R6: 470R Resistor (1)
R7: 47R Resistor (1) 0.5 Watt
PR1: 4.7k Preset (1)
C1,C3: 47u Elect(2)
C2: 1n Polyester 5% or better (1)
C4: 100u Elect(1)
Z1: 5V1 Zener (1)
Q1: BC549C or BC109C or 2N2222 (1)
Q2: BC337 or BC549 or ZTX450 (1)
IC1 : TSOP1738
IC2: 555 or 7555 (1)
LED1 5mm RED (1)
LED2,3 IR diode TIL38 or similar (2)
Alternatives to IC1 :
Everlight IR receiver module ELIRM 8621
Harrison electronics IR1
Vishay TSOP 1838
Radio Shack 276-0137
Sony SBX 1620-12
Sharp GP1U271R
Notes:
The signal emitted by an IR remote control contains two parts, the control pulses and a modulated carrier wave. The control pulses are used to modulate the carrier, a popular modulation frequency being 36 and 42KHz. The signal is radiated by an IR diode, typical wavelengths in the 850 and 950 nm region of the electromagnetic spectrum. Although this light is invisible to the human eye, it can be seen as a bright spot with a camcorder or digital camera.
In this circuit, the TSOP1738 IR module removes the carrier leaving only the slower control pulses ( 1 - 3KHz) which appear at the output. R1, C1 and Z1 form a smoothed 5 Volt supply for the IR module. Under quiescent conditions (no input signal) the output of the IR module is high. Transistor Q1 will be on, resulting in a low collector voltage, restting the 555 oscillator. Q1 also acts as a level shifter, converting the 5 Volt output signal to 12 Volts for the 555 timer. When an IR signal is received, decoded control pulses turn Q1 off and on. Each time Q1 turns off, pin 4 of the 555 timer goes high and an oscillation will be produced for the duration of each data pulse.
The 555 is wired as an equal mark/space ratio oscillator, the timing resistor R4, being connected back to the output of the timer, pin 3. The timing capacitor C2 is the other component in the timing chain. The pulse duration at pin 3 is defined as:-
As the timing is crucialthe capacitor should have a tolerance of 5% or better and the power supply should be regulated. To allow for tolerance in components a 4k7 preset resistor is wired in series with R4. This adjustment allows R4 to be 15k to 19.7K creating output pulses of 21us and 27.58 us. As frequency is the reciprocal of periodic time then the oscillator adjustment is from 36.2Khz to 47KHz, allowing fine tuning for almost any appliance.
The final output stage uses a BC337 transistor in emitter follower. The output pulse will not be inverted, and the current through the IR photo emitters is around 30 mA dc. This is of course an average value, measured with a digital multimeter. The red led as always, is a visible indication that an input signal has been received. The circuit may be modified to use a fixed resistor in the timing chain as shown below. In this example a voltage regulator is also recommended to prevent changes in supply voltage altering the output pulse.
Setup and Testing:
Remove LED 2 and 3 and apply power. With no input signal LED 1 should be off. Press a button on a remote control in the same room as the circuit. LED 1 should flicker. If all is well, connect LED's 2 and 3 and point them in the direction of the appliance (TV or VCR etc). The cable to the LED's can exceed 100 metres if necessary, ordinary loudspeaker cable or bell wire is suitable. Set preset PR1 midway initially, it should work for all equipment. Most equipment is tolerant to within 5% so if you have for example a video that works at 42kHz and a TV that works at 38Kz tuning the modulation to 40KHz should allow both devices to operate. Any troublesome equipment, for example an Echostar receiver repeatedly press abutton on the handset while tuning PR1, you will find that it operates at some point. One IR LED may be used in place of LED2 & 3, but if there are two appliance in the same room, but in different locations, LED 2 can be aimed at a video, while LED3 aimed at a CD player for example. Below is how I discretely placed a photo emitter and plastered it directly into the wall:
Modifications:
An alternative output configuration is shown below. This uses a MOSFET to replace the original BC337 transistor. My thanks to Pete Griffiths for this modification and diagram.
Compatability:
If you make either the Mark 3 or 4 circuit please let me know if it works and the make and model of your remote control. I will add this to the database of compatible handsets below:-
Aiwa RC-ZVR01
Denon RC 554
Denon RC 921
Denon RC 924
Echostar T22605AA-00 * troublesome required careful tuning of PR1 to work
Kameleon One for all remote (URC-8060) Goodmans 97P1R2CPA1
Grundig SRC2
JVC LP20878-002
Matsui 28WN04
Mitsubishi 290P103A10
Mitsubishi EUR647003
NAD HTR2 (multi remote)
One for All 9910
Panasonic EUR511200
Philips RC6512
Pioneer AXD7323
Pioneer DV444
Pioneer VXX2801
Radioshack 1995
Saisho VR3300X
Sony RM-533
Sony RM-887
Sony RMT-V240
Sony RM-S325
Sony RM-DX50
Sony RM-U215
Sony RM-839
Sony RM-SCEX1
Sony RM-S336
Sony RM-D43M
Sony VCR
Technics EUR64713
Circuit : Andy Collinson
Email me
Description:
The latest addition to my collection of Infra Red (IR) Repeater circuits. The Mark 5 is a much improved version of the Mark 1 circuit and has increased range and sensitivity. It is also immune to the effects ofambient light, daylight and other forms of interference. In addition it works with IR modulation freuencies in the range 30 to 120kHz making the Mk5 circuit the best choice for compatibility with remote controls.
Parts List:
R1,R2: 5M6 RESISTOR (2)
R3,R5: 3k3 RESISTOR (2)
R4: 120k RESISTOR (1)
R6: 220R RESISTOR (1)
R7: 47k RESISTOR (1)
R8: 120R RESISTOR (1)
R9: 10k RESISTOR (1)
R10: 2K2 RESISTOR (1)
R11: 100R RESISTOR 1 W (1)
C1,C3,C4: 22n polyester CAP (3)
C2: 100u electrolytic 25V(1)
C5: 100u electrolytic 25V(1)
Q1 BC107 (1) alternatives, BC107A, 2N2222, 2N2222A
Q2 BC109C (1) alternatives, BC109, BC549
D1: 1N4148 DIODE (1)
D2: Red LED (1)
IC1,IC2 CA3140E opamp (1)
IR1: SFH2030: (1)
IR2,3: TIL38 (2) or similar.
Design Philosophy:
This time I have returned to "first principles" and built a wideband infra red (IR) preamp which receives and re-transmits the entire baseband signal from a remote control handset.
It is designed to work with IR controls using 30-120KHz and should therefore work with just about any handset. In addition I have separated ambient (surrounding) light from the modulated light used by a remote handset. The major problem with the Mark 1 circuit is that it reacts to all light sources, ambient light producing a continous signal from the IR photo diode and is amplified by the rest of the circuit. I have published a modification to the original Mark 1 circuit, click here to view.
Noise Immunity:
It is difficult working with Infra Red, you cannot see it, and it is difficult to measure. A major barrier with this circuit was how to differentiate between daylight and an IR signal. Ambient light produces an almost continuous signal, changing little over several hours. A signal from an IR handset contains control pulses modulated with a carrier frequency (typically 36kHz) transmitted using an Infra Red photo diode. My solution used here, is a simple RC filter formed by C1 and R3.
At low frequency i.e. 50Hz the impedance of C1 is high, around 144k. The voltage gain of inverting op-amp IC2 is approximately R4 / R3, but at low frequency C1 is in series with R3 so the gain is now 120k / (3.3k + 144k) or less than unity. Daylight or ambient light will change slowly over several hours, in frequency terms this signal would be millihertz or less and C1's impedance will be megaohms.
A signal from an IR handset will be modulated at around 36KHz. At this frequency the impedance of C1 is very low, around 200 ohms. This has little effect on the input impedance of the op-amp stage and voltage gain will now be R4 / R3 or about 34 times. The impedance of capacitor C4 also helps noise rejection as its impedance change will allow more signal to pass into Q1 base at high frequencies and much less signal at line frequencies.
Circuit Details:
Light photons are received at IR1, this is an IR photo diode type SFH2030. A SFH2030F, which contains a daylight filter,may also be used instead of the SFH2030. The photo diode is reverse biased and when light strikes it, the energy of the IR signal releases additional charge carriers within the diode, allowing more current to flow. This current is amplified and converted to a voltage by the first CA3140 opamp, IC1. IC1 is wired as a current to voltage convertor, see below.
In an ideal current to voltage convertor the output voltage would be the product Rf multiplied by the input current. The non-inverting input would be tied to ground. In the Mark 5 circuit the output voltage is iR1 or about 5.6 Volts/uA appearing at pin 6 of IC1. The current generated by the SFH2030 photo diode when receiving a signal from a handset several metres away is less than 50 nA and requires the extreme high input impedance to avoid shunting the signal. There are two reasons for using the CA3140, the first is its high input impedance, over 1000G. The second reason is that normally the non-inverting input would be at 0V when working from split + and - supplies. In this single supply version the non-inverting input is returned to negative supply via R2. This can only be done with a Mosfet input, hence the choice for using the CA3140.
IC1 converta all current from the photo diode IR1 into a voltage. Although the SFH2030 is most sensitive at infra red wavelengths, it will produce tiny currents from daylight and also the 50/60Hz noise fields from flourescent and mains lighting. To minimize this, C1 and R3 form a high pass filter, allowing a 30kHz and higher signals to pass but blocking low frequencies. The impedance of C1 increases with decreasing frequency being 31k at 50Hz. Daylight for example, produces a contstant luminence, changing slowly over several hours, to which the impedance of C1 is effectively infinite.
The signal voltage from IC1 is now further amplified by IC2, gain being the ratio R4/R3 or 31dB. All opamps have a limit called the gain bandwidth product. The gain will fall to unity at the highest usuable frequency and be a maximum value at dc. Between these limits the gain falls with increasing frequency as shown in the bode plot for the CA3140 below:
Looking at the chart above, at 100kHz the maximum gain can only be about 30dB. However this is ample and boosts the received range of signals from a remote handset to the photo diode which have worked well up to 4 metres apart. Because R5 is returned to the negative supply a Mosfet input opamp must again be used. The output is again filtered by a high pass filter comprising C4 and the associated input impedance of Q1. R6, C2 and C3 provide decoupling for the IR preamplifier, C3 is in parallel with C2 because an electrolytic is not always a low impedance at high frequencies.
The IR output stage is comprised of Q1 and Q2 and associated components. The output is arranged so that with no input signal, Q1 is on and Q2 off; the visible LED, D2 will also be off. With no signal the 47k resistor biases the driver transistor, Q1 into full conduction. Its collector voltage will be near zero volts and the output transistor Q2, which is direct coupled to Q1 collector will therefore be fully off. Power drain will be minimal.
When an IR signal is receieved from a handset, the complete modulated signal will be amplified and fed via C4 into Q1 base. This is sufficiently strong enough to overcome the positive bias supplied by R7 and switch off Q1. This will happen many times a second, at the same frequency as the IR modulating signal sent by the handset. As Q1 switches off, its collector voltage rises to near full supply switching on Q1 and lighting the LED D2. Pulses of infra red at the same modulating frequency are then transmitted by the photo emitting diodes, IR2 and IR3. Because the signal is cleaner, (i.e. no daylight or 50/60Hz lamp fields included) then the series resistor R11 has been incresed in value to 100 ohms. The range from photo emitter diode to the equipment to be controlled has proved successfull at over 4 metres when powered from a 12 Volt supply. D1 helps to improve the turn off speed of Q1, thereby ensuring that the output waveform will be "squarer". It can be omitted but the circuit will perform better if D1 is included. A simulated transfer characteristic is shown below:
The ouput is measured between Q2 emitter and ground. A simulated transient response is shown below. Three graphs are produced with excitations of 40,80 and 120kHz.
Please note that the above waveforms are simulated using a perfect square wave input, with rise and fall times of zero seconds. The output is measured between Q2 emitter and ground with a 200 ohm resistive load. In the real world, the cable to the remote photo emitter LED's will contain both capacitance and inductance. This will increase both rise and fall times of the output signal. As with the Mark 1 circuit I recommend using speaker wire or bell wire to be used to cable the remote photo emitters.
Note that the veroboard layout below only includes the componets from the left of the schematic to C4, I had Q1 and Q2 on breadboard during this testing phase.
Click both images for a larger view.
Setup and Testing:
There is little to adjust in this circuit. First I suggest disconnecting the wiring to the emitters IR2 and IR3. Switch on and D2 should be off. Aim a remote in the direction of IR1 and press any button D2 should light and be seen to flash when a button is held on the handset and go off when unpressed. If all is well reconnect the wiring to emitters IR2 and IR3. Without lenses, the light is quite directional and so you will need to aim it carefully at the remote equipment you are controlling. A digital camera, or camcorder can "see" into the Infra red range. This is useful to prove that IR2 and IR3 are producing output.
Veroboard Layout:
Below is a picture of my veroboard layout for the Mk 5 IR extender using Ron J's excellent veroboard images. A tutorial on how to use the image is available in my practical section, click here for the article. Special thanks to Derek Smith for checking the veroboard layout and pointing out one small error (which is corrected now).
Special Note:I have omitted Diode D1 in my prototype and also the veroboard layout above, and the two images below. Click the links below to view the actual veroboard layouts. The veroboard drawing above shows the component site, the yellow circles represent the breaks on the bottom (track side).
Component side (106k)
Track side (97k)Note that this is reversed from component side.
For more help on vero layouts see this Practical Page.
Fault Finding:
If your circuit does not work, first check that your circuit is receiving power. Next compare the voltages to my prototype below. These checks are all made with a digital multimeter with a supply voltage of 12V DC. All checks are made with respect to ground (i.e. the back or negative meter probe is always connected to the negative or 0V power rail).
With no input signal:
With a strong input signal (handset same room less than 2meters away):
A good tip from Derek Smith (UK, who had problems with poor noise immunity in this circuit. Derek cured his fault by replacing the SFH2030 photo diode, the new SFH2030 provided much better noise immunity. So, if your voltage levels are similar to my prototype above then try replacing IR1.
If you still have problems with noise immunity check the supply voltage. Special thanks to Roch who found out that his 12V power supply was actually running at 16V. After reducing the voltage to 9V the problems disappeared for him. My original circuit ran happily from a 12V regulated supply.
Compatible Handsets:
If you build the mark 5 circuit please let me know the make and model of your remote control. I will add it to the list of compatible handsets below:-
Aiwa RC-ZVR01
Echostar URC-39756
Kameleon One for all remote (URC-8060) Maplins 6 way Audio/Video Switcher Hub order code L63AB
One for all remote
Panasonic EUR511200
Panasonic DVD player model no N2OAHC000012
Philips RC6512
Pioneer AXD7323
Pioneer VXX2801
Pioneer DVD remote
RCA systemlink 8 A-V
Saisho VR3300X
Sanyo vhs remote
Sony RM1- V141A VTR/TV
Sony RM-533
Sony RM-831
Std Sky digi box handset
Technics EUR64713
Xbox Remote
Mark 5 PCB:
The above pcb layout was kindly designed for this project by Lubo Veselsky.
Modification for 12V Vehicle Use:
The modifications below were kindly suggested by Allan Popplewell.
Allan writes: "I placed a TS7812 voltage stabilizer 2 columns over from Q2, across rows 2,3,4 with the heatsink to the right looking down (painted purple and called IC3 on the attached picture). I then moved the power input connector to the second (previously unused) row. The circuit will now receive only 12V, even though the car supply ranges from 13-15V depending on the charge state of the battery.
The circuit seems to work equally well at 9V, so a TS7809 would probably do just as well. I also replaced R1 with a 2M7 resistor seems to greatly improve noise rejection, especially from fluorescent or low-energy bulbs."
Thanks Allan for sharing your work with everyone and modifications- Andy Collinson.
Infra Red Extender Mark 4
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Description:
An Infra Red wired Repeater circuit to control appliances from a remote location.
Parts List:
R1: 1k Resistor (1)
R2: 3.3k Resistor (1)
R3: 10k Resistor (1)
R4: 15k Resistor (1)
R5: 2k2 Resistor (1)
R6: 470R Resistor (1)
R7: 47R Resistor (1) 0.5 Watt
PR1: 4.7k Preset (1)
C1,C3: 47u Elect(2)
C2: 1n Polyester 5% or better (1)
C4: 100u Elect(1)
Z1: 5V1 Zener (1)
Q1: BC549C or BC109C or 2N2222 (1)
Q2: BC337 or BC549 or ZTX450 (1)
IC1 : TSOP1738
IC2: 555 or 7555 (1)
LED1 5mm RED (1)
LED2,3 IR diode TIL38 or similar (2)
Alternatives to IC1 :
Everlight IR receiver module ELIRM 8621
Harrison electronics IR1
Vishay TSOP 1838
Radio Shack 276-0137
Sony SBX 1620-12
Sharp GP1U271R
Notes:
The signal emitted by an IR remote control contains two parts, the control pulses and a modulated carrier wave. The control pulses are used to modulate the carrier, a popular modulation frequency being 36 and 42KHz. The signal is radiated by an IR diode, typical wavelengths in the 850 and 950 nm region of the electromagnetic spectrum. Although this light is invisible to the human eye, it can be seen as a bright spot with a camcorder or digital camera.
In this circuit, the TSOP1738 IR module removes the carrier leaving only the slower control pulses ( 1 - 3KHz) which appear at the output. R1, C1 and Z1 form a smoothed 5 Volt supply for the IR module. Under quiescent conditions (no input signal) the output of the IR module is high. Transistor Q1 will be on, resulting in a low collector voltage, restting the 555 oscillator. Q1 also acts as a level shifter, converting the 5 Volt output signal to 12 Volts for the 555 timer. When an IR signal is received, decoded control pulses turn Q1 off and on. Each time Q1 turns off, pin 4 of the 555 timer goes high and an oscillation will be produced for the duration of each data pulse.
The 555 is wired as an equal mark/space ratio oscillator, the timing resistor R4, being connected back to the output of the timer, pin 3. The timing capacitor C2 is the other component in the timing chain. The pulse duration at pin 3 is defined as:-
T = 1.4 R4 C2
As the timing is crucialthe capacitor should have a tolerance of 5% or better and the power supply should be regulated. To allow for tolerance in components a 4k7 preset resistor is wired in series with R4. This adjustment allows R4 to be 15k to 19.7K creating output pulses of 21us and 27.58 us. As frequency is the reciprocal of periodic time then the oscillator adjustment is from 36.2Khz to 47KHz, allowing fine tuning for almost any appliance.
The final output stage uses a BC337 transistor in emitter follower. The output pulse will not be inverted, and the current through the IR photo emitters is around 30 mA dc. This is of course an average value, measured with a digital multimeter. The red led as always, is a visible indication that an input signal has been received. The circuit may be modified to use a fixed resistor in the timing chain as shown below. In this example a voltage regulator is also recommended to prevent changes in supply voltage altering the output pulse.
Setup and Testing:
Remove LED 2 and 3 and apply power. With no input signal LED 1 should be off. Press a button on a remote control in the same room as the circuit. LED 1 should flicker. If all is well, connect LED's 2 and 3 and point them in the direction of the appliance (TV or VCR etc). The cable to the LED's can exceed 100 metres if necessary, ordinary loudspeaker cable or bell wire is suitable. Set preset PR1 midway initially, it should work for all equipment. Most equipment is tolerant to within 5% so if you have for example a video that works at 42kHz and a TV that works at 38Kz tuning the modulation to 40KHz should allow both devices to operate. Any troublesome equipment, for example an Echostar receiver repeatedly press abutton on the handset while tuning PR1, you will find that it operates at some point. One IR LED may be used in place of LED2 & 3, but if there are two appliance in the same room, but in different locations, LED 2 can be aimed at a video, while LED3 aimed at a CD player for example. Below is how I discretely placed a photo emitter and plastered it directly into the wall:
Modifications:
An alternative output configuration is shown below. This uses a MOSFET to replace the original BC337 transistor. My thanks to Pete Griffiths for this modification and diagram.
Compatability:
If you make either the Mark 3 or 4 circuit please let me know if it works and the make and model of your remote control. I will add this to the database of compatible handsets below:-
Aiwa RC-ZVR01
Denon RC 554
Denon RC 921
Denon RC 924
Echostar T22605AA-00 * troublesome required careful tuning of PR1 to work
Kameleon One for all remote (URC-8060) Goodmans 97P1R2CPA1
Grundig SRC2
JVC LP20878-002
Matsui 28WN04
Mitsubishi 290P103A10
Mitsubishi EUR647003
NAD HTR2 (multi remote)
One for All 9910
Panasonic EUR511200
Philips RC6512
Pioneer AXD7323
Pioneer DV444
Pioneer VXX2801
Radioshack 1995
Saisho VR3300X
Sony RM-533
Sony RM-887
Sony RMT-V240
Sony RM-S325
Sony RM-DX50
Sony RM-U215
Sony RM-839
Sony RM-SCEX1
Sony RM-S336
Sony RM-D43M
Sony VCR
Technics EUR64713
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Infra Red Extender Mark 5
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Description:
The latest addition to my collection of Infra Red (IR) Repeater circuits. The Mark 5 is a much improved version of the Mark 1 circuit and has increased range and sensitivity. It is also immune to the effects ofambient light, daylight and other forms of interference. In addition it works with IR modulation freuencies in the range 30 to 120kHz making the Mk5 circuit the best choice for compatibility with remote controls.
Parts List:
R1,R2: 5M6 RESISTOR (2)
R3,R5: 3k3 RESISTOR (2)
R4: 120k RESISTOR (1)
R6: 220R RESISTOR (1)
R7: 47k RESISTOR (1)
R8: 120R RESISTOR (1)
R9: 10k RESISTOR (1)
R10: 2K2 RESISTOR (1)
R11: 100R RESISTOR 1 W (1)
C1,C3,C4: 22n polyester CAP (3)
C2: 100u electrolytic 25V(1)
C5: 100u electrolytic 25V(1)
Q1 BC107 (1) alternatives, BC107A, 2N2222, 2N2222A
Q2 BC109C (1) alternatives, BC109, BC549
D1: 1N4148 DIODE (1)
D2: Red LED (1)
IC1,IC2 CA3140E opamp (1)
IR1: SFH2030: (1)
IR2,3: TIL38 (2) or similar.
Design Philosophy:
This time I have returned to "first principles" and built a wideband infra red (IR) preamp which receives and re-transmits the entire baseband signal from a remote control handset.
It is designed to work with IR controls using 30-120KHz and should therefore work with just about any handset. In addition I have separated ambient (surrounding) light from the modulated light used by a remote handset. The major problem with the Mark 1 circuit is that it reacts to all light sources, ambient light producing a continous signal from the IR photo diode and is amplified by the rest of the circuit. I have published a modification to the original Mark 1 circuit, click here to view.
Noise Immunity:
It is difficult working with Infra Red, you cannot see it, and it is difficult to measure. A major barrier with this circuit was how to differentiate between daylight and an IR signal. Ambient light produces an almost continuous signal, changing little over several hours. A signal from an IR handset contains control pulses modulated with a carrier frequency (typically 36kHz) transmitted using an Infra Red photo diode. My solution used here, is a simple RC filter formed by C1 and R3.
At low frequency i.e. 50Hz the impedance of C1 is high, around 144k. The voltage gain of inverting op-amp IC2 is approximately R4 / R3, but at low frequency C1 is in series with R3 so the gain is now 120k / (3.3k + 144k) or less than unity. Daylight or ambient light will change slowly over several hours, in frequency terms this signal would be millihertz or less and C1's impedance will be megaohms.
A signal from an IR handset will be modulated at around 36KHz. At this frequency the impedance of C1 is very low, around 200 ohms. This has little effect on the input impedance of the op-amp stage and voltage gain will now be R4 / R3 or about 34 times. The impedance of capacitor C4 also helps noise rejection as its impedance change will allow more signal to pass into Q1 base at high frequencies and much less signal at line frequencies.
Circuit Details:
Light photons are received at IR1, this is an IR photo diode type SFH2030. A SFH2030F, which contains a daylight filter,may also be used instead of the SFH2030. The photo diode is reverse biased and when light strikes it, the energy of the IR signal releases additional charge carriers within the diode, allowing more current to flow. This current is amplified and converted to a voltage by the first CA3140 opamp, IC1. IC1 is wired as a current to voltage convertor, see below.
In an ideal current to voltage convertor the output voltage would be the product Rf multiplied by the input current. The non-inverting input would be tied to ground. In the Mark 5 circuit the output voltage is iR1 or about 5.6 Volts/uA appearing at pin 6 of IC1. The current generated by the SFH2030 photo diode when receiving a signal from a handset several metres away is less than 50 nA and requires the extreme high input impedance to avoid shunting the signal. There are two reasons for using the CA3140, the first is its high input impedance, over 1000G. The second reason is that normally the non-inverting input would be at 0V when working from split + and - supplies. In this single supply version the non-inverting input is returned to negative supply via R2. This can only be done with a Mosfet input, hence the choice for using the CA3140.
IC1 converta all current from the photo diode IR1 into a voltage. Although the SFH2030 is most sensitive at infra red wavelengths, it will produce tiny currents from daylight and also the 50/60Hz noise fields from flourescent and mains lighting. To minimize this, C1 and R3 form a high pass filter, allowing a 30kHz and higher signals to pass but blocking low frequencies. The impedance of C1 increases with decreasing frequency being 31k at 50Hz. Daylight for example, produces a contstant luminence, changing slowly over several hours, to which the impedance of C1 is effectively infinite.
The signal voltage from IC1 is now further amplified by IC2, gain being the ratio R4/R3 or 31dB. All opamps have a limit called the gain bandwidth product. The gain will fall to unity at the highest usuable frequency and be a maximum value at dc. Between these limits the gain falls with increasing frequency as shown in the bode plot for the CA3140 below:
Looking at the chart above, at 100kHz the maximum gain can only be about 30dB. However this is ample and boosts the received range of signals from a remote handset to the photo diode which have worked well up to 4 metres apart. Because R5 is returned to the negative supply a Mosfet input opamp must again be used. The output is again filtered by a high pass filter comprising C4 and the associated input impedance of Q1. R6, C2 and C3 provide decoupling for the IR preamplifier, C3 is in parallel with C2 because an electrolytic is not always a low impedance at high frequencies.
The IR output stage is comprised of Q1 and Q2 and associated components. The output is arranged so that with no input signal, Q1 is on and Q2 off; the visible LED, D2 will also be off. With no signal the 47k resistor biases the driver transistor, Q1 into full conduction. Its collector voltage will be near zero volts and the output transistor Q2, which is direct coupled to Q1 collector will therefore be fully off. Power drain will be minimal.
When an IR signal is receieved from a handset, the complete modulated signal will be amplified and fed via C4 into Q1 base. This is sufficiently strong enough to overcome the positive bias supplied by R7 and switch off Q1. This will happen many times a second, at the same frequency as the IR modulating signal sent by the handset. As Q1 switches off, its collector voltage rises to near full supply switching on Q1 and lighting the LED D2. Pulses of infra red at the same modulating frequency are then transmitted by the photo emitting diodes, IR2 and IR3. Because the signal is cleaner, (i.e. no daylight or 50/60Hz lamp fields included) then the series resistor R11 has been incresed in value to 100 ohms. The range from photo emitter diode to the equipment to be controlled has proved successfull at over 4 metres when powered from a 12 Volt supply. D1 helps to improve the turn off speed of Q1, thereby ensuring that the output waveform will be "squarer". It can be omitted but the circuit will perform better if D1 is included. A simulated transfer characteristic is shown below:
AC Transfer Charcteristic
The ouput is measured between Q2 emitter and ground. A simulated transient response is shown below. Three graphs are produced with excitations of 40,80 and 120kHz.
Please note that the above waveforms are simulated using a perfect square wave input, with rise and fall times of zero seconds. The output is measured between Q2 emitter and ground with a 200 ohm resistive load. In the real world, the cable to the remote photo emitter LED's will contain both capacitance and inductance. This will increase both rise and fall times of the output signal. As with the Mark 1 circuit I recommend using speaker wire or bell wire to be used to cable the remote photo emitters.
My Prototype
Note that the veroboard layout below only includes the componets from the left of the schematic to C4, I had Q1 and Q2 on breadboard during this testing phase.
Click both images for a larger view.
Setup and Testing:
There is little to adjust in this circuit. First I suggest disconnecting the wiring to the emitters IR2 and IR3. Switch on and D2 should be off. Aim a remote in the direction of IR1 and press any button D2 should light and be seen to flash when a button is held on the handset and go off when unpressed. If all is well reconnect the wiring to emitters IR2 and IR3. Without lenses, the light is quite directional and so you will need to aim it carefully at the remote equipment you are controlling. A digital camera, or camcorder can "see" into the Infra red range. This is useful to prove that IR2 and IR3 are producing output.
Veroboard Layout:
Below is a picture of my veroboard layout for the Mk 5 IR extender using Ron J's excellent veroboard images. A tutorial on how to use the image is available in my practical section, click here for the article. Special thanks to Derek Smith for checking the veroboard layout and pointing out one small error (which is corrected now).
Special Note:I have omitted Diode D1 in my prototype and also the veroboard layout above, and the two images below. Click the links below to view the actual veroboard layouts. The veroboard drawing above shows the component site, the yellow circles represent the breaks on the bottom (track side).
Component side (106k)
Track side (97k)Note that this is reversed from component side.
For more help on vero layouts see this Practical Page.
Fault Finding:
If your circuit does not work, first check that your circuit is receiving power. Next compare the voltages to my prototype below. These checks are all made with a digital multimeter with a supply voltage of 12V DC. All checks are made with respect to ground (i.e. the back or negative meter probe is always connected to the negative or 0V power rail).
With no input signal:
IC1 Pin6 1.15V IC2 Pin6 0V Q1 base 0.8V Q1 collector 0.13V Q2 emitter 0V
With a strong input signal (handset same room less than 2meters away):
IC1 Pin6 1.15V IC2 Pin6 0.15V Q1 base 0.65V Q1 collector 3.16V Q2 emitter 2.79V
A good tip from Derek Smith (UK, who had problems with poor noise immunity in this circuit. Derek cured his fault by replacing the SFH2030 photo diode, the new SFH2030 provided much better noise immunity. So, if your voltage levels are similar to my prototype above then try replacing IR1.
If you still have problems with noise immunity check the supply voltage. Special thanks to Roch who found out that his 12V power supply was actually running at 16V. After reducing the voltage to 9V the problems disappeared for him. My original circuit ran happily from a 12V regulated supply.
Compatible Handsets:
If you build the mark 5 circuit please let me know the make and model of your remote control. I will add it to the list of compatible handsets below:-
Aiwa RC-ZVR01
Echostar URC-39756
Kameleon One for all remote (URC-8060) Maplins 6 way Audio/Video Switcher Hub order code L63AB
One for all remote
Panasonic EUR511200
Panasonic DVD player model no N2OAHC000012
Philips RC6512
Pioneer AXD7323
Pioneer VXX2801
Pioneer DVD remote
RCA systemlink 8 A-V
Saisho VR3300X
Sanyo vhs remote
Sony RM1- V141A VTR/TV
Sony RM-533
Sony RM-831
Std Sky digi box handset
Technics EUR64713
Xbox Remote
Mark 5 PCB:
The above pcb layout was kindly designed for this project by Lubo Veselsky.
Modification for 12V Vehicle Use:
The modifications below were kindly suggested by Allan Popplewell.
Allan writes: "I placed a TS7812 voltage stabilizer 2 columns over from Q2, across rows 2,3,4 with the heatsink to the right looking down (painted purple and called IC3 on the attached picture). I then moved the power input connector to the second (previously unused) row. The circuit will now receive only 12V, even though the car supply ranges from 13-15V depending on the charge state of the battery.
The circuit seems to work equally well at 9V, so a TS7809 would probably do just as well. I also replaced R1 with a 2M7 resistor seems to greatly improve noise rejection, especially from fluorescent or low-energy bulbs."
Thanks Allan for sharing your work with everyone and modifications- Andy Collinson.
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